Close-Board Fencing
/ kləʊs bɔːd ˈfɛnsɪŋ /
Also known as: feather-edge fencing, featheredge board fencing, closeboard fencing
Definition
Close-board fencing is a traditional site-built timber garden fence consisting of tanalised (pressure-treated) softwood components: square-section posts set in concrete at minimum 600mm depth for a 1.8m fence; triangular arris rails mortised into the posts (2 rails to 1.2m, 3 rails to 1.8m); overlapping tapered feather-edge boards nailed to the arris rails with 25mm overlap; and a gravel board at the base to keep boards clear of ground contact. More durable and repairable than panel fencing - individual boards can be replaced without disturbing the structure. Standard heights: 1.2m, 1.5m, and 1.8m. Permitted development (no planning permission) up to 2m in England, or 1m adjacent to a vehicular highway. Posts are the primary failure point - concrete spurs or hot-dip galvanised steel post supports extend post life.
In practice
Close-board fencing outlasts panel fencing by a significant margin when built correctly from tanalised components, with posts at the correct depth in concrete. The most common failure point is the post, which rots at ground level even in pressure-treated timber given enough time - typically 10-20 years depending on species, treatment, and soil conditions. Concrete spur posts (short concrete posts set in the ground with the timber post bolted above ground level) eliminate post-in-ground rot entirely and allow the timber post to be replaced without breaking out the concrete base.
The gravel board is a frequently omitted component on cost grounds, but its omission significantly reduces fence life - without it, the bottom of the feather-edge boards sit on or in the soil and rot rapidly. Gravel boards themselves will eventually rot (being in contact with the ground) but they are cheaper and easier to replace than the full run of feather-edge boards. Concrete gravel boards (precast concrete board) eliminate this maintenance issue entirely and are strongly preferred for long-life fencing. The post cap (a pyramidal or angled cap on top of each post) sheds water and prevents end-grain rot at the post top - often omitted but a worthwhile addition.